![]() ![]() Reconfiguring the entire panel to a completely different layout takes just over a minute! I've also cut out a 12" steering wheel panel and about a dozen joystick and button panels for later expansion.Īll of the panels on the cabinet are swappable with no tools in (literally) a few seconds. In my case, various joysticks and a spinner are mounted on 4" panels, a six button panel is 6" and the full size arcade trackball occupies a 8" panel. These panels can be mounted in any order on rails to create any desired control panel. Two player with "Pac-Man" style 4 way stick in the middleĪ modular panel is something different - individual small joysticks, trackballs, and button sets are mounted on small panels. Pinball buttons are also visible in this picture. This ended up being a simple fix with a DIY 6 pin harness from Radio Shack (see parts list for hyperlinks).Tron/Discs of Tron layout. The one snag I did have was getting the trackball wired up, as the harnesses weren't even close to being the same. It would be very advisable to purchase a few extension harness packs as well. Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the Mini-PAC. If you purchased the Mini-PAC and wiring harness from Ultimarc, wiring everything is very easy as well. ![]() Mounting the buttons, joysticks, and trackball was very simple and straight forward. I didn't take any pictures of the component installation and wiring. The whole top can then be mounted to the base, and component installation can begin! After the t-molding is installed, turn the top panel over and mount the piano hinge. using the utility knife, I cut chunks out of the insert part to make the rounded corners, and this seemed to work very well. Next, apply the t-molding to the sides using either a mallet or hammer and scrap wood. You can now apply the plexiglass top to keep the decoration looking pristine. Notice how the sunken t-nuts got covered up. I used diamond plate vinyl for that good old-fashioned industrial look. If you have a dremel tool, it works wonders to adjust any cuts or holes.Īpply your decoration over the top panel, and use a utility knife to carefully cut out all the mounting holes. Get a large starting hole going in the middle of it, and S L O W L Y cut out the shape with a jigsaw. Do this for any smaller mounting holes as well using the proper size drill bit in reverse. It literally just melts right through it, leaving a perfect hole and edge. I found using the hole saw in reverse to be the way to cut out the holes in the plexi. Lexan would be the next step up, but at over 3 times the price of regular plexiglass, I just couldn't justify it. It's a few bucks more than regular plexiglass, but WAY stonger and much more forgiving. This was my first experience with the high impact plexi, and I'm absolutely sold on it. ![]() I used scrap MDF as a bottom layer and sandwiched the plexi in the middle, using bar clamps to secure everything. Once your top panel has dried, use it as a guide to cut out the plexiglass top. After all parts were constructed, I put several coats of cheap black spray paint on everything. I didn't take any pictures of the body construction and won't go into much detail about it, as it's pretty straight forward. ![]()
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